We actually got a bit of wind after we left Espiritu Santo and got a nice sail in. I went to bed after dinner and Dean woke me at 2300 when the wind had died off and I motored into the night until dawn.
The mountainous islands of the arhcipelago are rain makers and I could see where islands were from where the clouds were situated. Above me though the sky was clear with an almost full moon so I had great visibililty. I am used to phosporescence on the water, but there was none here. I took this photo of the moon as it set with Venus. It is blurred because I could not get a clear picture while going over waves at 4.5 kn but I hope you can get the idea of what a beautiful night it was.
I set the alarm to do a thorough check every half hour. I would do a visual check with the binocculars and a radar sweep but there was nothing at all. As it got closer to dawn and I was closer to the islands I was a bit more toey and reduced my official check to every 15 minutes, but again, not a nellie. After ourt last experience I was hyperaware of FAD’s, as they aren’t on the chart plotter here, just marked with a flag and I think a light. But they tend to be much closer in and we were probably a bit far out. Still I wasn’t taking chances. I was also worried about running over a ni-Van going out for some early morning fishing without a light, but again we were probably a tad too far out for their range.
It was so nice not needing twenty layers of clothes on. I was just in my bikini and life jacket all night. I’d spent most of the night demolishing my latest book (on kindle) and by dawn I was really tired, and after I woke Dean up I fell straight into bed for a couple of hours.
When I woke up I had brekkie then put a line out. I am the more proactive when it comes to fishing, although Dean has the hard work of killing and filleting. I still had one more “girl lure” (blue and pink)that Dean had made me. After the Sail fish getting away we had bought stronger line, so I attached my lure and put it out for the day.
As we made our way along Vanua Lava, little sqaulls were travelling along the land, but missed us most of the time, being a little further out.
Squalls on Vanua Lava
Of course my line off went off just as we were approaching a narrow passage between two islands. We did actually have a bit of rain at that stage and the wind and waves had picked up also. I put the engine into neutral immediately and ran for my line. Oh my goodness another Sail fish. Clearly they are attracted to the pink and blue glitter skirted lures! Well I wanted to land one, so here was my chance. It didn’t go so well. I tried for a while but it dived really deep and I couldn’t bring it in at all and in fact was losing line. I also didn’t have a clue, I have never done this before. Finally Dean took over from me and I looked after the boat.
He brought it in close but we had no hope of bringing the poor thing onto the boat without using the gaff, and we didn’t want to kill it. So Dean bought it up as close as possible and I cut the line. A small part of me had wanted to land the last one, but never again. This is definitely not my thing. I don’t mind catching a fish to eat, but this. No. So, I lost my second girl lure, hopefully it won’t take too long to rust out of its mouth, and from now on I stick to smaller ones. Dean can use his matching boy lures (blue and silver) how he likes but my game fishing days are over!
So feeling a bit bad, I didn’t put another line out. We entered Port Patteson with a North East swell rolling in. The anchorage at Sola has absolutely no protection in these conditions and it was very rolly. Since it is sunday we don’t expect the fuel depot to be open anyway so we opted to go across to the otherside and anchor in Nawono Bay. As soon as we were around the point the swell was gone and we were in perfectly calm waters. The bottom was black sand/mud and good holding. We did try radioing customs to let them know we were stopping, but predictably there was no reply.
We had a nice afternoon but just as I asked Dean to bbq our meat the heavens opened. He put the lid on the bbq and stood out there and washed his hair! We had put the awning up to collect the rain and topped up our tanks to brimming. I selected to have an indoor shower with just a touch of heat!
The island itself is a lot of thick thick jungle covered in vines. On a local Wiki there is an entry saying Steve Irwin introduced salt water crocodiles here. I looked up the Australia zoo notes, and yes one that was threatening a village was relocated to a river on this island, but I don’t imagine it was without consultation. I don’t think there are a lot of salties here as it is right on the edge of their range, but we are staying cautious and no dips overboard.
Nawono Bay, Vanua Lava
Techinically we have cleared out of Vanuatu and are just here for emergency re-provisioning/fuel, so we can’t wander ashore. But from what we can see, like everywhere else we have been, the village here is exceptionally neat and tidy. It will be interesting to see what Sola is like because through binocculars I really couldn’t see much at all. It must be located behind the protection of the trees.
In the morning we upanchored and moved over to Sola. It was still very rolly and with squalls still occuring so I stayed on the boat in case the anchor dragged. Making it a particularly ominous anchorage was the rocky reef to one side that looked like sharp teeth ready to rip the boat open should you drag onto them.
Dean tried to radio immigration but had no luck so he tried to make contact onshore. The officer was apparently in Luganville. Getting a new stamp perhaps? The Finance and Trade Officer was the closest official person able to assist, and he also let us know a bit more of the mystery why we were unable to clear out here. The stamp was definitely outdated, however apparently immigration weren’t happy that the customs officer and policeman were allowed to stamp passports so Luganville were a bit on their high horse. God love politics.
His next visit was to the bank to get some vatu. We assumed because there was a bank we could withdraw money. We should have learnt by now never to assume. They have no electronic system so we were only allowed to exchange money we already had. So he pooled his AU$ and US$ he had on him, and adding that to the small amount of vatu he still had, had just enough to buy fuel to fill the jerry’s. The man worked out the exchange on the calculator and handed over the vatu, then realised he’d calculated it from euro’s not AU$ so Dean had to give back his vatu and get a lot less back on the weak AU$.
The locals were building a road from the town to the airport. Dean said a huge number of men were working on it, making the concrete up in little concrete mixers as the went. This is seriously hard work. Having a bit of a chat, he also found out that there aren’t crocs on this side of the bay, but they live on the otherside where we had anchored. Everywhere we go the piccininies are always playing n the water, and it made sense now, that we saw hardly anyone on the waters edge over there, and certainly no one in the water.
We were also lucky we could top up with diesel. Apparently the supply barge only comes every 3 months and they usually run out in the weeks before it is due. But because they are building the road the barge has been coming a bit more frequently with supplies.
Looking back to Sola from the boat I really could not see a lot as the village is behind the trees. I could see a big white cross on the hill though that was something of a landmark. You may be able to see it towards the left of centre in the photo.
While Dean was ashore I washed our clothes. We don’t have a washing machine onboard so when there is no washing service, this is the tool I use to wash with. Not sure what it is called but I bought it on Amazon and it gets up a swirl in the bucket and is quite effective.
We then retreated back to Nawono Bay to do final preps and have lunch, where it was calm before leaving. Dean also downloaded weather maps from all of our sources one more time, then away we went. Basically he gets as many weather models as he can, then makes an educated guess on what he thinks.
Luckily as we prepare to leave Vanuatu, we appear to be rid of our onboard fauna. I haven’t seen an ant in days, and our resident gecko has been silent, leading me to believe he has probably departed this world. So with a clean boat, we are Northward bound on a route less travelled.
Around Vanuatu there are quite a few islands with distinctive geography that we call “Hat” Islands. Because they have the bit to sit on your head, then look like they have a broad brim. Here is one just off Vanua Lava, called Mota.
Mota
From what I can make out regarding the geology, is that they are old volcanoes and the sides are eroded down. Coral is then growing around the periphery, and as the island erodes further the polyps need to keep building before they are submerged too deep.
It was quite blustery and wet as we departed Vanua Lava. This is our last view of Vanuatu through the rain and cloud, as we continue our journey North.
Farewell Vanuatu, we have absolutely loved visiting.
Run to Paradise 