I am married to a man who used to be in the army, so I never expected to visit Guam and not have to do the rounds of significant battle sites. Luckily they are easily accessed and I don’t need to tromp through waist high grass and mud to access them.
The first place we visited was Ga’an Point. This beach was relatively easily accessible and was an obvious landing place for the US, trying to recapture Guam, and the Japanese were prepared. In saying that the soldiers still needed wade through water, on uneven coral strewn ground.
From the air, observers thought the ridge was a sand hill, but in fact it was a granite outcrop that was a natural fortress. The Japanese made it into a stronghold by digging a network of tunnels where they located guns. It was impregnable from the sea but ended up being taken when tanks attacked it from the land. To us it just seemed like a nice grassy knoll.
Today walking along the pathways on a blue sky day, it is hard to image a bloody battle being fought here but the bunkers and pill boxes are evident, and anti aircraft guns and coastal defence guns remain on display as emblems of the struggle for the island and a memorial to all the people who died during the recapture.
On one bunker in particular you could see extensive shrapnel damage and actual bullet holes in the concrete.
When the battle was fought there were dense groves of coconut palms in the area, but once the island was secured the Americans cleared the area to erect shelters for the 6000 Chamorros released from concentration camps on the island. Today the American, Chamorro and Japanese flags are all flown to commemorate all those who fell for their countries.
Our day wasn’t all about war sites though. We drove to Malesso, the Southern most village in Guam, which was like entering another country. There is a strong Spanish influence, and a large population of Chamorros. We stopped to get lunch from where we could see roadside stalls set up. Unfortunately we chose poorly and a highly processed hot dog and sugary slushy didn’t really hit the right spot for me. However the scenery was beautiful. The water was crystal clear and children were swimming off the jetty. Music blared, everyone was happy and smiling and willing to chat, and despite the dinstinct look of poverty about it, it was clean and litter free.
Below you can see me sitting on the jetty, with Cocos Island behind me.
Just up the road at Umatac we visited the Magellan Monument. In 1521 Spanish Ferdinand Magellan sailed in on his circumnavigation attempt, marking the first documented contact of Western civilisation here on Guam. This is why there is a Spanish influence down this end of the island.
As we headed back home we visited Fort Nuestra De La Soledad which was the last of four fortifications built by the Spanish, circa 1810. The fortifications were to provide protection to Spanish Galleons that stopped here to replenish stores during their long voyage between Mexico and the Philippines, against pirates. By 1815 the site was abandoned because due to political unrest in Mexico, when the galleons ceased travelling to the Philippines.
The position certainly held a commanding view of the coastline.
On an island the size of Guam with a beautiful lagoon and reef we tend to focus on the sea. But there is also a breathtakingly lovely interior with many bush walks and even waterfalls to visit. While we were giving those options a miss, we did get an awesome view from the Vietnam War memorial, looking back inland across the rolling hills.
The drive to the South of the island was really beautiful. There were a few lookouts along the way that are well marked and easy parking. This one has a few steps to climb, the rewarding view at the top made it worthwhile.
There are wild chickens everywhere on this island. I would hate to see bird flu go through here. Even in the middle of town you hear roosters crowing. It aways amuses me seeing them wandering around; here are a few just wandering around the car park at the lookout, no houses in sight. A mother and what looked like chicks only a few days old, and handsome roosters strutting their stuff.
Once safely back on board Run to Paradise we had a healthy dinner of grilled Mahi Mahi, so good after the rubbish food we have been eating.
Run to Paradise 